Tips for Off Season Travel to Martha’s Vineyard

Are you like me and love visiting areas when tourists aren’t taking over the roads, hotels, restaurants, and sites? I’m sharing some tips for off season travel to Martha’s Vineyard this morning.

I love to blend in with the locals. Move slowly. Gander and inhale deeply.

Anxious apprehension hits when the traffic is at a standstill…wait lines are unbearable at restaurants…and noise levels are at an all time high.

Does that happen to you?

Are you an off season travel lover, too?

Then come sit by me. Make plans for traveling when tourist season is not at peak full throttle.

I honestly understand what it looks like to have sidewalks rolled up, restaurants and businesses shuttered, and movement almost at a halt.

A few years ago we ventured out to Nantucket after Columbus Day to find all of the above. Who knew that off season meant everything came to an abrupt halt, right?

This year with a hotel certificate gifted that my brother couldn’t use meant, “yes, please”, off to Martha’s Vineyard we went.

BEFORE Memorial Day.

And yes, that meant lots of businesses, restaurants and places were closed. Seriously shuttered.

“No Mow May” yards signs gave hint to the taller standing unkept yards.

Signs that were evidence that places were still slumbering left us a little off kilter for where to go and what to do.

Can we talk about the beneficial tips for off season travel?

1. A more relaxed atmosphere.

Besides the obvious less amount of human bodies with screaming babies, children’s antics, car fumes, over zealous bikers, and gregarious nightlife…there’s more of a subtle lull in the gait.

No one is hurrying.

Not one is scurrying.

There’s a relaxed length to the wander and the walk all around us.

2. Beautiful weather.

Beautiful weather early in May meant temps and sunshine were at an all time glorious premium on Martha’s Vineyard. Add a bit of sunscreen to your bag since the sun is in full force if you need it.

A cool breeze that may mean a lighter jacket or long sleeves pulled back out of our southern closet than home temps allowed. No worries there. Just pack accordingly and add an umbrella for an occasional shower.

By the way, we found dress to be casual. From everyone we met across the island.

TIP: If you are allergy prone during spring blooming, pack your favorite antihistamines and Benadryl. Also to note…locals complained of the prevalence of ticks, so take insect/tick repellent and medications for bites. We had no trouble with ticks, but just giving you precaution.

3. Less traffic.

The roadways are not packed with traffic to add time to the travel during the off season months.

Although there is presently a grant for free bus travel on the island, a great tip to remember is that each time you stop and get off of the bus, you will wait one hour for a bus to pick you back up. AND…there’s always places where you get off the bus to transfer to another line that adds more time to the journey.

4. Our best tip for transportation? You still need a car for ease in travel.

My tip for you? Bringing your vehicle over on the ferry requires much planning…which by the way is charged by the foot…our rented Buick was going to cost over $300 to bring it over…and reservations even during off season ferry voyage were nearly impossible. We found that renting a car on the island was the best form of transit while there. A 24 hour off season car rental rate was $165. Add that to your budget. Along with parking your rented or owned vehicle on the mainland at $17 per day.

Just a bit of humor…we paid long term parking in Nashville for our car for the week…rented a car in Boston to pay to leave parked while we were on the island…to rent another car on the island to use. Crazy, right? Perhaps rethinking that one will benefit your travel!

It was glorious to leisurely drive across the 100 mile radius island and only took an hour from one end to the other with stops. That’s my preferred method.

NOTE: There are bike rentals available, but few bike lanes mean for dangerous riding around the island. Even in off season, you could tell it made even the bus drivers anxious. PLUS–the E-bike rental costs were $75 each for 9-5 rental. Not sure if that increases during prime travel season. Made car rental much more the preferred mode of transportation.

5. Dining.

Recommended restaurants during planning weren’t always open, had a great value or provided good food.

Hands down, our favorite restaurant is Black Dog Tavern for a nicer evening meal. A casual setting by the wharf which was warm and welcoming.

Meals there are heavenly.

Their clam chowder is hands down the BEST on the island…and their same great chowder is $3 cheaper by cup at the Black Dog Bakery Cafe.

This Asian Soba Noodle Salad is such a favorite…that I made an attempt to recreate it! You have to have it if you go there…

Black Dog Bakery Cafe is our favorite for breakfast and lunch. GREAT food and more affordable prices, than any other food we had. Lots of locals there, as well as, those who had come to open homes on the island for the season provides confirmation that this is a favorite among locals.

Desserts are divine there, too. My husband loved this chocolate cake…

For me? A molasses cookie with coffee was perfect.

We also love eating seaside at Coop de Ville in Oak Bluffs.

Great fish sandwiches served on the wharf which we loved.

We had a great Irish waiter there who did his best to keep us entertained.

Other dining tips…

We would avoid the Scottish Bakehouse…which is a huge disappointment with no Scottish food or heritage described on the website found at all. As the waitress there said…we just sell what sells…hmmmm…

TIP: A definite no would be to step foot in the Craft Kitchen Nine in Vineyard Haven. Watery clam chowder, not great food, extremely high pricing and poor service all found there. Steer clear of that one. Sadly others at tables around us were having the same experience…

Just giving you my honest opinion.

Just a note! We were a week early for the annual Friday night fundraisers at Grace Episcopal Church selling lobster rolls…that would have been on our list had they been open!

We did find the Stop and Shop groceries to be wonderful for snacks, drinks and things to grab. If you have cooking facilities, this would be your go to place for great food and finds. There are also places to purchase fish if you have a grill or kitchen to prepare.

If you know you will have cooking facilities, it might be good to bring pantry supplies over with you on the ferry to save and help with breakfasts, coffee or lunch. Even though there was a communal kitchen where we were, it was always overflowing with other guests making it not easy to make your own coffee or cook around others.

I would suggest taking a picnic basket to pack Stop and Shop goodies and picnic by the water or in picnic areas.

5. Take advantage of the history.

So much history on the island gives more opportunity to explore during the off season. Just wandering through cemeteries caused reflection on the stories of the people who have lived here and what they have endured. Just reading headstones was captivating.

From the lighthouses…

To picturesque homes…we were able to take it all in. If you know me, you know I LOVE white picket fences which are plentiful all across Martha’s Vineyard. The architecture…charming.

For more history and stories of the island, click here. Susan lived on the island for over 20 years. Just click under Martha’s Vineyard category to find the most wonderful stories.

There are tours available if you want to do that. In hindsight, we probably should have scheduled one!

6. Visit ALL of the towns on the island.

VINEYARD HAVEN

The ferry enters and departs from Vineyard Haven. Just a heads up: you enter the ferry from one end and depart from the other end. Suitcases are added to a cart that is left by the ticketing station when you board and depart the ferry. Good to remember. Instructions for these details were not always evident.

Our accommodations were in Vineyard Haven and it’s the hub of action. You will find the tourist bureau there, which provided us a bus map. There are lots of bike and car rentals, souvenir shops, parks, wharfs, and a Stop and Shop grocery to begin your journey through the island. Black Dog Tavern was located here.

One of my favorite shops, The Beachhouse of MV, was a wonderful place to catch deals and beautiful placemats, napkins and tea towels to tuck in to take home.

There are bookstores on the island that I looked forward to perusing…but found none open.

You might look for the Martha’s Vineyard Museum to see events while there.

It’s here that I began sprinkling the VUE magazines that I had brought with me. Even though they were added to the tour guides for guests, it was perfect to add a bit of marketing for my community, too. In fact, they might learn a little about marketing from us!

Hmmmm….note our publication is priceless…AND monthly!

We toured Owen Park close to the water where in season concerts happen…but, quiet in the off season.

OAK BLUFFS

Coop De Ville was in one of our favorite towns, Oak Bluffs. Filled with gingerbread Victorian houses around the wharf, it was enchanting.

The oldest flying horses carousel in the Americas is there…but, as many things, wasn’t open. We were able to see it through the doors…which for my husband, whose father had 7 patents on amusement park rides, was a great find.

Tent camp meetings of the Methodist Church are a part of Oak Bluff’s history.

Lawns on the ocean’s edge will soon be the setting for events and tourists at the height of summer season.

I’m always fascinated by the docking of boats out in the middle of the harbors. Just out by themselves to take a small boat out to board.

The wharf here is not usually how boats are anchored.

We toured Oak Bluffs’ beautiful homes, lighthouses, shops and restaurants that weren’t yet all open. Oak Bluffs harbor was delightful.

There is an alpaca farm there if you’d like to visit.

EDGARTOWN

The most popular town on the island is Edgartown. The history is evident from the cemeteries, houses, churches, and shops. A more refined and elegant part of the island is demonstrated by the white houses trimmed in black and abundant picket fences…all which speak my love language. Town halls are always a central part of each town on the island and cape.

Old churches like St. Elizabeth’s Catholic Church…

and the old Whaling Church are part of the historical features of this town.

Edgartown was filled with cute shops, restaurants and sweet surprises like these elephants on the lawn…

One of the cemeteries that I walked through was in Edgartown. Evidence of the town history was abundant there. Tears may flow when you read those headstones…just saying!

WEST TISBURY

The most time we spent here was in transferring buses. Unfortunately most of what we saw in this area was closed. It boasts art galleries, a general store, farmer’s market, arboretum, glass blowing among the in season sites.

CHILMARK AND AQUINNAH

We traveled by bus to these areas. Country roads, farm lands, a town center and fishing village were easily found. The bus took us to Menemsha Fishing Village that had great seafood and beaches.

We weren’t quite prepared for the chill of the wind off the harbor! A sweatshirt or jacket is needed here in case you visit in May.

Were you aware that there is an Indian reservation in this end of the island? The Wampanaoag Tribal Center is in Aquinnah. Our bus driver told us that there were only a few who took public transport and left that part of the island.

This was our least explored part of the island since it was done by bus. Another tip is that you simply can’t stop and visit when and what you want to when on the bus. Hence, we are fans of traveling by car–yours or a rental.

50th Celebration of Jaws

Lots of focus is on events to celebrate the 50th anniversary of filming of Jaws on the island this summer. You could see that the area was ramping up to to focus there if you visit during the summer months.

You can see glimpses of the island if you watch that movie before you come.

A few more off season tips…

• There is an airport from New York or Boston if you want to fly directly to the island instead of drive, park, etc.
• Notice the farming community, horses, and wildlife around the island. We truly weren’t prepared for it all. You might take advantage of horse back riding and farmer’s markets if they are open when you tour. This turkey was just roaming a front yard as we passed…

• Be careful… not all reviews and photos are a true reflection of your accommodations. Our bed was great, but the photos and description of our hotel as reservations were made were not the same upon arrival.
• Forgive me, but unfortunately the visitors’ bureau wasn’t very helpful. We were given a map for the bus route and picked up more “tourist” guides that helped; but, we found that information was very vague and sparse, locals not easily found, and navigating among others who weren’t local a little difficult. Even the publications began events in June providing little information to off season Martha’s Vineyard travelers. I laughed when my husband had to let the visitors’ bureau know what some of the places that we found were open that they insisted were closed…hmmm…
• Be prepared to expand the budget when you arrive. Everything costs more on the island. Just don’t stress about it. As we talked with truck drivers loading and unloading at the dock, just getting foods, supplies, merchandise, propane, gas, etc. to the island is difficult. It all adds to the cost of everything. It makes sense when you look at the whole picture.

And a few more off season tips…

• Look for good maps to aid you in touring the island.
• Check online sites that may be more current than printed materials after you arrive.
• Take advantage of off the beaten paths to see more beauty and views.

• Bus travel had international drivers who didn’t know the island or speak English very well. For the most part, they simply drove.
• Bring a book, stroll the seashore, observe the flowering vegetation, and breathe deeply.
• Simply don’t stress the lack of entertainment in the off season. Natural beauty of the season and before the insanity hits is worth the trip during the off season.
• You may want to reduce the amount of time on the island during the off season since most places are not open. Once we had rented a car…toured the island…had a taste of shopping and great food…and a bit of history gleaned from the island? We chose to head back over on the ferry for more vacation at a more affordable price in the rental car we had already rented. With the rest of the week to tour Cape Cod and have more seafood…it was a great and affordable choice to finish the rest of the week for off season travel to Martha’s Vineyard.

One last reflection about Martha’s Vineyard. We felt a push against tourism across the island. Why? Tourism represents challenge for residents in the way they live their lives. I’m sure like others in high tourism destinations, some of the same issues are being battled there, as evidenced by letters to the editor in their newspapers. A distinct reference to the island being a finite island..and the stress on schools, hospitals, law enforcement, water, resources, and even removal of trash from the island gave me an islander’s view that made me understand a local viewpoint.

So off season rang true again.

And once again, I found myself needing to support their local economy and drift in at an off season time to blend in with the locals. At a time when the overflow is less felt and my support of the economy a bit more appreciated.

Hope you make plans to travel to Martha’s Vineyard…and the off season travel still settled well with us. Just the relaxation and pace we needed!

So, if you plan for after Labor Day travel there this year or May travel next year, hopefully these tips for travel in the off season will be helpful.

Happy travels, friend! Thanks for joining me! If you have any tips I missed, please add them to the comments.